October 28th, 2015

I took my pumpkin over to a local historic site tonight for my Architecture History class. We got extra credit if we carved a famous structure and brought it there for an evening open to the public to enjoy. 

That's mine on the left.

They got a fire going, and there was candy and apples for those who wanted to snack. There was even a very fluffy orange cat darting around that let me pet it, right before it climbed inside one of the volunteers' cars.

St. Basil's

Big Ben

Rose window

The front of my pumpkin (the Itsukushima Shrine torii gate)

The side of my pumpkin, with the Itsukushima kanji

Fallingwater

Sydney Opera House

There were some really fun pumpkins, and we had a couple of families bring their kids out to see them. It was nice to get to share some of the season's cheer with the community. Three more days to Samhain...

October 27th, 2014

I carved my first pumpkin of the season tonight! Check out the Itsukushima torii gate!

I only had an LED candle, so it wasn't very bright, but I'll light it with a real one tomorrow night, and hopefully that works better. I had a little accident with the thin piece in the middle cracking on the right side, but I've got it sort of propped up, so hopefully it stays.

I also roasted my pumpkin seeds!

It's a really easy recipe. Rinse the seeds, and then for about every two cups, add a teaspoon of oil and a teaspoon of salt. You can also add other seasonings; garlic is a good one. Then pour them onto a microwaveable plate and microwave on high, stirring every two minutes until they're nice and crunchy. It will probably only take between five and eight minutes of cooking, total.

July 16th, 2014

I decided I'd round out my Japan posts with photos of all the lucky charms (omamori) I bought from different shrines and temples. For the sake of scale, all of these are between one and three inches long.

From Itsukushima:

A general "good fortune" talisman, embroidered with the island deer.

A talisman for good luck in academics, taking exams, etc.

From Kinkakuji:

A "traffic safety" amulet, which I'm assuming extends likewise to safety during travel.

From Kiyomizudera:

A squishy little talisman portraying the god of business success.

A dragon talisman for good fortune.

From Jishu:

A talisman for improving "the luck in love of one's zodiac sign". I'm a Pisces.

From Meiji:

I was so worried that I'd lost this one because I couldn't find it the other day, but when I got my keychain holding all of these out to take pictures, there it was! This amulet promotes oneness of the mind and body.

The writing on this carved wood reads "kodama", which is the Japanese word for "tree spirit" (similar to the European dryad). These spirits of the forest are generally benign, unless their tree is attacked, in which case they may curse the person who cut it. According to the Meiji shrine website, these wooden bells are made from the wood of sacred trees which have finished guarding the shrine precinct and allow for the oneness of human spirit and nature.

And then there's this: my little desktop shrine for academic excellence.

All of these are definitely coming to college with me.

Kiyomizudera

And you thought I was done talking about my Japan trip! ;) Not even close. It does give me a lot of blog fodder, though, so I may stretch it out just a bit.

Otowa-San Kiyomizudera

Literally "Clear Water of Mt. Otowa Temple", Kiyomizudera is another famous Buddhist temple in Kyoto. Founded in 778, before Kyoto was made Japan's capital, the temple buildings have been burned down numerous times. Most of the present buildings were rebuilt by the Shogun Tokugawa in the 1630s. In 1994, it was added to the UNESCO World Heritage list as a historic monument of ancient Kyoto. 

Kiyomizu Temple is a stunning example of Japanese architecture and worship, but regrettably, I only have a few pictures since many of the buildings prohibit photography. 

This is the Deva Gate and primary entrance into the temple grounds. Devas (Ten in Japanese) are Buddhist entities who live on higher planes. They are invisible to the human eye, but those with special extrasensory capabilities may possess the power to hear their voices or see them psychically, or the spirits may take on an illusory form to manifest themselves on the human plane. Their powers include flying and moving from place to place with great speed; the more powerful varieties neither eat nor drink. Under the umbrella term "Deva", there are many varieties of spirit, each having their own abilities and place in the universe. They are arranged hierarchically and in this way could be considered comparable to angelic choirs in Christianity, but a Buddhist would likely caution one to not assume that Devas are equivalent to angels; indeed, some important distinctions exist that one should be aware of. For starters, Devas are not paragons of morality. They certainly can be, and many are, but it is not a requirement. Some possess human vices like arrogance or pride, and likewise they are not omnipotent. Furthermore, Devas are not immortal (though their life span may be billions of years), and they reincarnate just as all other mortal beings do in Buddhist belief. A Deva may come back as a human, another Deva, or something else altogether. It is not easy to work with this brand of spirit, as getting their attention is a challenge, but if they can be contacted they tend to give valuable advice and insight.

Remember the Komainu from Itsukushima? Here's another one, right outside the Deva Gate.

This one is not my picture. It shows the main hall of the temple and the terrace which provides a stunning overlook of the valley and of Kyoto beyond. In this hall is enshrined Kannon Bosatsu (remember her from Kinkakuji?) and I got to see a group of monks performing mass here as well as individuals making offerings and prayers.

This (also not my picture) is the goddess Kannon shown in her form of having 11 heads and 1,000 arms. According to legend, she saw all the misery and suffering in the world but could not answer all the prayers of her supplicants, so her head split into 11 pieces and now she has 11 mouths with which to answer. Likewise, her hands could not offer help to all of humanity, so her arms split apart and now she has 1,000 of them to aid her in her task. The Kiyomizudera statue is hidden most of the time; according to my research, it is only viewable once every 33 years.

The name, Clear Water Temple, comes from the fresh mountain springs which have been flowing since the temple was founded. There are three springs, and patrons wait in a long line to hold a bamboo ladle under the water and drink. Each spring has a different association - longevity, wisdom, and love - but it is generally considered bad form to drink from all three.
I did buy lucky amulets here, of course. One is a small figure of the "god of Business Success", and the other has a dragon printed on the fabric for good fortune.

June 23rd, 2014

I do want to write up posts about my time in Japan, but first, a bit of news from today. My family and I are spending the weekend at my chosen university for next fall, going through the whole freshmen orientation business. The campus is set in a beautiful landscape, mere minutes from a wildlife refuge, national forest, and a park that's actually called Garden of the Gods. Not only that, but five minutes from my dorm is a Gaia Interfaith center, and there's a forest preserve in the middle of campus. It couldn't be a more ideal setting for a Pagan (well, other than no candles or incense in the dorm room). Moreover, there's a ton of diversity in the student body, so I can't imagine I'll be the only Pagan in the area. Like the icing on the cake, we were taking a bus tour this afternoon when we passed the campus forest preserve and saw a doe standing along the edge of the trees. She looked right at me, and I knew that could only be a sign of Goddess-given approval. I can't wait to start here in the fall!

Okay, back to Japan. The first shrine we visited was Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima Island, across the bay from Hiroshima. 

Itsukushima Shrine

Itsukushima is one of the most famous shrines in Japan, and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Because it is a Japanese shrine, it is Shinto. Japanese temples are Buddhist. That being said, Shintoism and Zen Buddhism coexist peacefully on this island nation, and indeed, over 70% of the population considers itself both Buddhist and Shinto. Many famous places are actually home to both temples and shrines in the same acre of space. As a general rule of thumb, Shinto rites relate to one's daily life, while Buddhist rites deal with death and remembrance of the deceased. In Shintoism, the color white is considered sacred. Many paper temple decorations are white, as are the robes worn by the priests.

The shrine celebrates the god of the island itself, specifically the god (kami) of Mt. Misen, the island's tallest mountain. That being said, there are websites which say that this shrine venerates Susanoo, the moon and storm god, his daughters, or various local goddesses. I am basing my information off what was listed on the UNESCO website, given that that seemed like the most reliable source of information.

Itsukushima was supposedly founded in 593, but no written record of it exists prior to 811. The original buildings were reconstructed and expanded in the 1100s (1168, according to written record), after which the shrine received the patronage of Taira no Kiyomori, the most powerful shogun of the era. He believed he owed his political power to the god of Itsukushima, and worshiped there often. As a result, some Japanese may consider the place a shrine to Kiyomori as well.

Fire severely damaged the premises in 1207, but reconstruction efforts kept the blueprints very similar to what had been there in Kiyomori's time. Since then, the shrine has never been reconstructed all at once, but individual buildings have required work as storms, typhoons, and tsunamis have done damage. They have been meticulously repaired in accordance with historical materials and practices. The Japanese government now personally oversees work done on this historical religious site. A relatively recent addition? Fire extinguishers, since Itsukushima is built entirely of wood and plaster.

But enough history. It's the pictures that you actually want to see.

Here's your first view of Itsukushima as you approach Miyajima by ferry. That vermillion Torii gate is not the shrine itself, but it is the gate of purification that designates the presence of all Shinto shrines. This one is particularly impressive - for one thing, it's huge. For another, it's set well out on the beach such that it appears to float on the water at high tide. In ancient times, pilgrims could not enter the island until they had passed under the Torii by canoe and ritually cleansed themselves.

Also on the island, besides the shrine, are dozens of these cute little deer (Yes, that's me next to him. Pictures or it didn't happen, right?). They're considered a Japanese national treasure, and are denizens of the shrine in their own right. Being completely used to human presence, one can walk right up to them, and they'll just keep on minding their own business. You aren't actually supposed to pet them (a rule that doesn't seem especially well-followed), but if you have so much as the slip of a paper receipt showing, they will try to eat it. Go figure.

This is a Komainu, a "lion dog" spirit always displayed in pairs and usually at the entry gates to Shinto shrines. Originating in China, Komainu spirits and their statues are found today in Korea and Japan as well. Lions are mystically believed to frighten away evil in the East, and so they sit and guard these sacred spaces. In many pairs, the animals are identical but for one thing: their mouths. Often, one will have its mouth open and the other's will be closed. The open-mouthed spirit is saying "A", the first letter of the Sanskrit alphabet, while the closed-mouth spirit says "Um", the last letter. Together, they say "Aum", representative of the beginning and end of all things (think Alpha and Omega); the word has significance in Buddhisn, Hinduism, and Jainism, but is relevant to cultures the world over.

This is a much closer view of the Torii gate; note how small the people are by comparison. Leave a coin at its base and make a wish.

These are the handwashing stations which can be found outside all shrines and some temples. The proper way to use them is as follows: holding the dipper in your left hand, scoop a cup of water and pour it over your right. Switch the dipper to your right hand, and pour water over your left. Then cup your left hand and pour water into it. Sip this water and use it to rinse your mouth; then spit it out onto the bamboo or rocks outside the water enclosure. Finally, allow the remaining water to run down the handle of the dipper to clean it for the next person. This represents purification of the body, while passing through the Torii gate is purification of the soul.

And finally, the shrine itself. Inside, one can walk the corridors in quiet contemplation, pray as desired, marvel at the tiny crabs inhabiting the sandy courtyard at low tide, and if you happen to make it at just the right time, watch a Shinto priest perform a ceremony. Available for purchase are paper fortunes (better than fortune cookies) in a variety of languages - English, Chinese, Japanese, and Korean are the usual ones - or Omamori, which are lucky amulets. These come in a wide variety of colors and meanings, and each can only be bought at that specific temple or shrine. They are often monogrammed, at the very least, with the name of where they were bought and with their purpose. From Itsukushima, I got a purple amulet (or in this case talisman might be more accurate) to enhance studying and a pastel one embroidered with island deer for general good fortune.

That's Miyajima! If you ever have the opportunity to go, I highly recommend it. It is absolutely stunning, not to mention of vast historical, cultural, and religious significance. I can also tell you that the maple leaf is an iconic symbol in the Miyajima area, and that you can not only see many wild Japanese maples (Momiji) but you can also get lots of maple leaf themed snacks and souviners. Yes, I shopped more in two weeks than I've done in my entire eighteen years. No, I do not have a single regret.